ScanACat Parts List

The project offers optional parts to match different needs. The downloadable software contains simple true/false variables, allowing the end user to customize their configuration.

Substituting parts may require software modification.

The Main Processors:

Arudino MKR1010 WiFi (digikey.co.nz, rss and others carry this). Power draw 93mA normal, 30mA low power sleep mode. I chose the version with headers to reduce the soldering needs.
Arduino MKR SD Proto Shield (digikey.co.nz, rss and others carry this). Power draw approximately 10 mA when in use. A Micro SD Card (available from many places, I used a SanDisk Extreme 32 GB).
Jedrek 134.2 Khz Long Distance Animal Card Reader FDX HDX ISO 11784/5. Power draw in active mode is around 800mA, and about 10mA when in standby.

I purchased from Ali-Express with pre-made antenna:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005981237634.html?search_direct=true&spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0

Note: I have experimented with other, more affordable modules, but they were not as effective. Antenna design is complex, and many individuals end up damaging their boards when attempting to design one. That's why I chose an option that includes the antenna. Occasionally, the board may arrive with a jumper cable connecting pin 5 (power enable) and pin 1 (3.7-4.5 V) in active mode. If this is the case, remove the jumper cable to conserve power.

The Sensor:

IR Break Beam Sensor(s)

I purchased from digikey their part number is 1528-2526-ND, the manufacturer was Adafruit (5mm led size). This included both an emitter and receiver.
Power draw 20mA at 5 volts, has a response time of <2 ms and a sensing distance of up to 50cm.

If you wish to have an open-ended tunnel or trap with the antenna in the middle you will need 2 sets; one for each end of the tunnel. Only one set is required if there is a single entry/exit.

NOTE: These are used to reduce power consumption. It would be possible to change the software to simply leave the system fully up for reading of chips in cases where people have easy access to a power source; but I have not done so at this time.

The Real Time Clock (optional):

I decided to use the Adafruit PCF8523 as a low-cost add-on. These are also available from several sources (I used Digikey).

The advantage of adding a real-time clock is that it provides the ability to log the date and time a chip was read. Some users may not require a timestamp, so this part is optional.

If using the Adafruit Real-time clock, a CR1220 coin battery is required.

The Power Source:

I chose the Xiaomi Redmi 20000 mAh Power Bank which has single port output of 2.4A or dual port max output of 2.1A. If you choose something else the output port must support 5V, and your power budget for amps drawn). I purchased at PBTech, though many others carry this. For instances where power is available a clean 5V power supply with sufficient output to support the power draw (3A will be more than sufficient). Or where you have good solar input for your distribution, there are powerbanks with solar panels to help keep them charged.

Button:

Most momentary buttons will work without changes to the software. I chose the Black Momentary IP65 Pushbutton Switch CAT.NO: SP0756 from Jaycar.

The button reduces power consumption by only turning on wi-fi if the button has been pressed.

RGB LED (status LED):

I chose to use a single LED for status purposes, it was a Clear RGB Common Cathode LED. I used a Kingbright WP154A4SUREQBFZGC T-1 3/4 (5mm) Full Color LED Lamp. Many places have these or others that will work just as well with no change to the software.

Red Light Emitting Laser Diode (optional):

Under test is the Duinotech Arduino Compatible Red Laser Diode Module which I got from jaycar to see if it will help coax a cat through the housing when no lure is used. I have no results to report at this time. But the software is there in the event you want to try it. Draws 30 mA when on.

Other Parts:

Some other items are required for all configurations, and some will be based on your desired usage and configuration. As such this list will require some thought about how you intend to utilize and house the ScanACat device.

USB Cables:

To connect the MKR WiFi 1010 to your computer, you will need a micro-B USB cable for the Arduino end and a compatible cable end for your PC/Mac.

If you are using a battery bank to power your system you will need an appropriate USB cable to connect the battery bank to the Arduino enclosure..

For the walk-thru box version, the following parts were used many of these can be substituted with other equivalent parts depending on your needs:

Qty 3: Hirshmann 6 Pole Pre-Earth CA Series Panel Plugs (jaycar link)
Qty 3: Hirshmann 6 Pole Pre-Earth CA Series Panel Sockets (jaycar link)
Qty 1: IP67 Rated USB Socket Type A (jaycar link)
Qty 2: 3 Pin Chassis Male Mini XLR Style Connector (jaycar link)

note I would switch these for the IP67 equivalent in the future

Qty 2: 3 Pin Line Female Mini XLR Style Connector (jaycar link)

note I would switch these for the IP67 equivalent in the future

Enclosures (2) for processors, I purchased at HiQ components and used the below
- Hammond IP66 160x90x60 polycarbonate box PN 26-1554J2GY
- Hammond IP66 160x90x90 polycarbonate box PN 26-1554K2GY
Qty 1: Screw Terminal block (jaycar link)
Jumper Wires
twin screened audio cable (length needs to get between the arudino enclosure and the RFID reader enclosure) (jaycar link)
????
8 core cat 5 network cable (jaycar link, length depends on your configuration)
a 6 pin 'Dupont' connector shell and 6 female crimp connector pins (I purchased from mecha4makers. Used to connect to the RFID reader board.
OTHER WIRES
If using red light emitting diode:
- Qty 1: 4 Pin Microphone Line Female Connector (jaycar link) or IP65/67 equivalent
- Qty 1: 4 Pin Microphone Panel Male Connector (jaycar link) or IP65/67 equivalent
- a small breadboard
- Qty 1: 2N7000 N-Channel FET (jaycar link)
- Qty 1: 470 Ω resistor
- Qty 1: 10K Ω resistor

Tools:

Soldering Iron, solder and desolder braid.

If you aren't experienced at soldering electronics there are many online tutorials available:

Optional but very nice to have: Third Hand PCB Holder with clips and magnifying glass or similar.

Wirestrippers and cutters.

Heat shrink tube (I prefer glue lined), it can be hard to find the smaller diameter sizes so look around.

A tool to shrink the heat shrink: a hot air gun is a popular choice, with care a butane micro torch can be used, also with care the soldering iron can be used.

Electrical tape.

Double-sided tape.

Superglue.

Antistatic wristband and pad, good practice but environmental conditions determine need. If you live someplace where you find yourself getting static shocks and want to make sure you aren't going to fry a board then this is a good thing to have and use.

Drill and appropriate-sized bits and hole saws.

Possibly a jig saw or similar, depending on housing plans.